June 24, 2024


sights and trips

The legacy of Chilean mountain climber Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto and his journey to Everest

Adventurer Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto never shied absent from a obstacle – in fact, he was encouraged by them.  

As the Guinness Entire world Data title holder for the speediest double-header of the better 8,000ers without having supplementary oxygen, he built background in 2019 by starting to be a single of the couple of people to have at any time summitted the two of the world’s highest peaks back-to-again, in report time.  


There are 14 mountain peaks on Earth that exceed an altitude of 8,000 m (26,246 ft) but there is a appreciable hole amongst the fifth and sixth peaks, for this reason the identification of the “Higher 8-thousanders”. These 5 peaks are Everest (8,848 m), K2 (8,611 m), Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), Lhotse (8,516 m) and Makalu (8,485 m). 

Prieto was the first Chilean to ever arrive at the leading of Everest, and therefore the only a person to do so without the need of any oxygen tanks to help with the altitude and climb on his journey.  

In a make any difference of 6 times and 20 several hours, he managed to climb to the summit of Lhotse (8,516 meters earlier mentioned sea amount) and then get to the leading of Everest at (8,848 meters earlier mentioned sea level) by way of Base Camp 2 which is shared by the two mountains.  


Regrettably, Prieto passed absent February of this year, soon after making an attempt to ascend Everest’s peak K2 during its treacherous winter season time.  

Even though he will no longer be equipped to continue his mountaineer missions, his group, with assist from North Face Chile, have teamed up to launch a documentary of his file-breaking climb to honor his legacy and achievements.  

Expedición Lhotse – Everest sin oxígeno, produced by Fundación Deporte Libre, showcases the grit, resolve, and threat Prieto faced in order to complete his dream of breaking a history. 


Tickets can be bought for the film in this article, which will air from 21 Might 2021 at 20:00 EST right until 24 Could 2021 at 00:00 EST. All proceeds from the tickets will go directly to guidance his three small children, Pedro, Elisa and Juan Pablo, who share the identical love for nature and climbing as their late father. 

The film showcases all facets of the vacation, together with the emotional and unexpected circumstances that arose on the expedition.  


Some of these involved ice falls, which are constantly a hazard summitting these mountains, but one particular bundled a rescue mission of two individual climbers who were being suffering from pulmonary edema on the mountainside. 

Prieto and his team tried using to assist Bulgarian Ivan Yuriev Tomov and Russian Nastya Runova by bringing them to safety, but they had been sadly far too late.  

In the midst of the unsafe hike, Tomov passed absent in Prieto’s arms from the severe circumstances of the environment.  

The Chilean mountain man never forgot that knowledge or the other folks he confronted prior to his report-breaking accomplishment.  


In advance of climbing Lhotse and Everest, he also conquered 5 of the highest peaks in the entire world: Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and Manaslu.  

Preparing for every journey is key for results, and Prieto felt that it was always best to acclimate one’s overall body to the physical problems endured on intense climbs, this sort of as altitude sickness, thin air, lengthy bouts of exhaustion and more.  

But for him, the teaching was really worth it for the rewards each and every hike supplies.  

“The mountains give me anything, it is a sort of meditation. When you have currently been walking for 10 several hours, your thoughts is blank. You are concentrated only on the mountain, you overlook about all the daily challenges.” 

Now, Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto is remembered by his loved types and individuals in the mountaineering neighborhood – who share that he was a person of the most constructive and uplifting folks they experienced at any time satisfied.  

His cousin, Sergi Mingote, mentions his enthusiasm for lifetime, which he realized from his father.  


“Juan Pablo was a humble and cheerful man, with excellent physicality. He was often well prepared to do a mission. I am his cousin, and he usually explained to me how important it was to total my dreams. He firmly thought that anything is feasible.”