June 13, 2024


sights and trips

A via-hike across the Carpathians: Czech Michal Medek’s on his two-month journey, the splendor of the Romanian ranges, and how the mountains are shifting

In the summer season of 2019, Czech Michal Medek embarked on a exclusive journey. Setting off from the Pálava array in the Czech Republic, he went on a two-month thru-hike across the Carpathians, crossing Slovakia, Poland, Ukraine, and Romania. He ended his route in south-western Romania, in Coronini, in the region of the Czech settlements in Banat. 

His 2,200-kilometer stroll, which he chronicled on the internet site Transcarpathian.org, arrived soon after various preceding hikes in the location and in Romania, the success of an idea and dream that started off in section with a reading of Miloslav Nevrlý’s Carpathian Online games, the English translation of which he not long ago edited and designed obtainable in this article. Nevrlý hiked by the Romanian mountains in the 1960s and 1970s and wrote this e book about the beauties of Romania, Medek clarifies.

“It all begun in 1991 with this e-book, Carpathian Games by Miloslav Nevrlý. It is a e-book about the beauties of Romanian mountains it was published by the Czech naturalist in 1982, essentially illegally it was not an official reserve, it was just published for close friends, and then persons started out studying and copying it. It was also revealed in Romanian.” 

The account supplied the 1st inspiration for the lots of hikes he made in the Carpathian ranges. “I came to it when I was 18 several years outdated or so, and it struck me I was like ‘Wow, it is lovely, it can be amazing.’ Of training course, I had hiked before, primarily the Czech Republic, but at that time, I believed it would be wonderful if I hiked all over the Romanian mountains but also the total Carpathian ranges. And I started accomplishing that, from 1991- 1992, I went each yr to the Carpathians. To some ranges, I went lots of instances, to Czechia and also Romania. […] I 1st hiked with my pals from university, then my girlfriend, who is now my wife, then also with a scout team in the 2000s. Then I also discovered in 2005 Albania, and I was there also 3-four moments. I also hiked the Slovakian Carpathians, and then previous year I went to the Polish aspect, I hiked about the Ukrainian border.”


Other facets performed into the choice to program the through-hike, such as the time put in climbing on the Pacific Crest Path whilst he was on an internship in the United States in 2002 and a passion for mountaineering nurtured from the Scouting motion. 

In the Czech Republic, scouting “was seriously a nation-broad motion,” he explains. Nevrlý’s book was posted unofficially as scouting was banned three times in the country. “We are a country of 10 million now, there used to be 12 after Entire world War II with each other with Slovakia, and there were roughly half a million scouts it was really a mass movement from the really beginning. There was a good deal of influence from the Woodcraft motion in North America. In the Czech Republic, it was always for peace and character, […] democracy. And this is why they hated it. It was an structured movement.”

Scouting was banned through the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia, then in 1948 soon after the Communists seized power, and yet again in 1970, soon after the Soviet profession of the place. “For the Czechs, it was generally a symbol of democracy. There is a different detail certain for Czechoslovakia: it is what we contact wild scouting. It was a thing that started in the 1920s and flourished in the 1930s when there was the Wonderful Depression. Lots of young, unemployed, city men just went out to the countryside, to forests, and they built compact huts and lived there, and lived their goals about the wild way of living. It produced into a subculture. Also, in Communist moments, the Communists in no way dealt with this lifestyle. It was generally perceived as anything Western-oriented. But it was pretty potent, millions of individuals ended up portion of this. On Fridays, you could see railway stations entire of men and women with backpacks, going to forests, making hikes there, out of the Communist culture. I was a member of the Scouts, quite a few of my classmates were being in superior faculty. It kind of completed in the 1990s now it’s largely the more mature technology that are nonetheless assembly, it can be not so prevalent.”

This also describes why there are so quite a few Czechs coming to Romania but also to the mountains in common, he claims. “We’ve received these cultural roots it really is ordinary to go mountaineering it really is this cultural detail, I would say.”

A switching landscape

His numerous journeys to the Carpathians authorized him to see the mountains reworking in time. “My initially diploma is in biology- geology, I’m educated in pure history, and I can see how the mountains are changing. This is also why I produced the webpages, and we translated Carpathian Game titles mainly because I feel that the variations are pretty rapidly.”

From an increase in the quantity of holidaymakers and value hikes to a change in land management and overgrown meadows, “the Carpathians, as they have been for centuries, are now changing very quickly,” he describes. “When I was climbing by Romania, not the primary ridges, of training course, Făgăraș, Munții Rodnei, but if you go say to jap Călimanii Mountains, you see the massive adjust in the land management. If you go to Maramureș, you can see there are quite a few meadows that are ample. The best ridges are not changing so rapid, but the decrease types are switching truly quickly.”

He thinks it would be great to emphasis the attention on the Carpathians in normal as they a type of a hidden gem. “Absolutely everyone is heading to the Alps, but if you go there, almost everything is great for travelers, every little thing is completely ready, […] outdoor stores and all the marked trails. Of training course, it is attractive, but to some extent, its natural beauty is just retained for travelers. In the Carpathians, there is this primary land administration to really treatment about the assets, but it is diminishing.”

He contrasts the area circumstance, exactly where some complain about the overgrazing from sheep to the problem in Czechia and Slovakia, wherever “we try out to hold at the very least some components of this conventional management to see how the mountains ended up in the previous. In Romania, the improve is inevitable due to the fact men and women will be leaving the mountains, I imply the shepherds, and the holidaymakers are coming. That’s the trend.”

He details out the position that shepherds participate in in the classic administration of the land. “I consider it is important to see the shepherd as a person who is retaining the standard administration of the mountains with no them, there would be absolutely distinct habitats […]. I consider people need to be good to shepherds. […] They are the mountain people today.[…] Sometimes national parks are just having to pay shepherds as a way of land administration. If you go to Poland, you can see how the mountains modify with no the shepherds.”

Climbing has develop into an ever more popular exercise, but it has its problems. “I can see that many Romanians now go to the mountains, it is turning into a country-huge pastime exercise, and there are a few of discrepancies. Selection a person: there a great deal of individuals who are coming by automobiles, which is quite undesirable, it can be a destruction of mountains. […] And an additional team is the persons who are going to the mountains climbing, and they understand it as a sport. I could see a ton of people today operating via the mountains now it was never ever there in advance of in the 1990s or even 12 yrs ago. Now it’s just common, folks who are just running by way of the mountains. Of program, it is all throughout the planet, but there are these distinct relations. A ton of folks are now in the mountains, and I can see, also I sense that the more mature Romanian mountaineers can experience, that these persons are not all the time understanding what the mountains are and that there is a sure ethics,” he factors out. 

He gives the instance of a prior hike when he was kicked out of refugiu (refuge/shelter) into the rain by a group of Romanian holidaymakers with no tents or sleeping bags or of seeing refuges being used a lot more as accommodations by individuals trying to claim them and not as shelters for hikers who need to have them. “If you are out there in the mountains, of system, it can come to be pretty soon perilous, and quite a few people who are coming there these days got the equipment, they imagine it is about the devices, and they do not recognize it is also about the ethics and supporting every single other and getting well mannered to each individual other.”

As he mentions that the ethics hasn’t had time to build in holding with the interest in climbing, he references another reserve, Cartea Munților (The E-book of the Mountain) by Romanian writer Bucura Dumbravă, 1st revealed in 1919. “The book is actually lovely, it is also about the mountains, how to behave, about the ethics, how to be lighthearted, how to be well mannered and respect the character.”

Hășmaș Mountains

The independence of the Carpathians 

On the subject matter of what helps make the Carpathians an attractive mountaineering vacation spot, he mentions the feeling of flexibility, the exact component that impressed a lot of who examine Carpathian Online games to go climbing in this article. “If you read through the book Carpathian Video games, it can be all about freedom, since likely mountaineering in Romania in the 1960s, 70s it was all about freedom. Persons hiked the mountains, and there have been no policies, almost nothing, just meeting the persons, talking to them, […] simply because if they have been likely to the Czech Republic mountains, there would be instantly the Law enforcement asking them how they got there – ‘It seems to be like a scouting, it really is banned.'”

At the identical time, the mountains are very vacant, he clarifies, recalling how a lot of people today he counted as a result of his entire 2019 journey. Apart from for the extra well-known ranges, which make up 15-20 percent of the entire Carpathians, “in the rest 85% I achieved just 13 folks mountaineering, aside from Tatry, Rodnei, Piatra Craiului, Făgăraş, perhaps Retezat, and a person range in Poland that is pretty popular that is really amazing. The mountains are basically empty, so there is this experience of solitude, and you are in character.” 

The Carpathians are tough, “they are nonetheless like they made use of to be in the past, you can see that the land management is even now alive in lots of regions, in particular in Romania, which is exceptional, and then the independence,” he goes on, as he factors to the option of wild tenting and staying equipped to put up a tent any place, a little something not authorized in the Tatras or other substantial Carpathian ranges in Slovakia.

The reverse is the risk of the mountains starting to be also crowded in some places, which would be unsustainable, he details out. In particular if those people viewing are not made use of to currently being in nature, are not mindful of the rules, and can end up destroying the landscape. “If you are a conscious hiker, no one finds that you stayed someplace. If you observe the ‘leave no trace’ philosophy, then you pose no risk to the mountains. A great deal extra hazard are, of training course, the blueberry pickers, and they are leaving a great deal of rubbish in the latest many years. It was not like that in the earlier now I can see a good deal of garbage there.”

Wildlife close by

The through-hike meant a lot of options to face the wildlife of the Carpathians, either in Czechia, Slovakia, and Poland or Ukraine and Romania. For occasion bears, which he fulfilled about 5 instances. He describes that in some regions of the country, he could truly feel the presence of bears a lot of more situations, which created him careful. “They don’t want to fulfill you. A lot of, several situations, the bear was close by, and I just couldn’t see it. In regions like eastern Călimani or Vrancea, you just go and see the bear was right here a number of hrs back it is really however warm wherever he lay, so I was applying jingles to warn the bear that a human was coming.” It really is significant to truly feel unsafe, he states, “due to the fact then you are vigilant, you get treatment or else you may well get into issues.”

1 unforgettable face was with a wolf. “I achieved a wolf once, yes, and it was stunning. It was this ‘once in a lifetime moment’ when I could see – I was down mentally, because it is hard to go there alone, it was raining all the time, these mountains are truly wild the sun was shining for a moment, and then I could see the wolf, and this night solar, actually wonderful. He spotted me, and we looked at every other for a couple of seconds, and of program, the wolf went absent.”

Even now, the dogs were the greatest worry, even even though he was expecting to satisfy them. “From the hiker’s stage of check out, the worst point is not the bears, it is really the canines. I’ve been to Romania a lot of, lots of situations, and I felt I’m made use of to them, no surprise. […] It was tricky, even for me. And when I crossed the border from Ukraine to Sighetu Marmației and quickly, when I went out from the city, I could see the canines. I mentioned: ‘Oh, welcome to Romania!” 

Fortunate encounters 

Amid the most loved moments of the hike, he mentions the encounter with other scouts in Făgăraș Mountains. “I achieved there a pair of scouts, it was definitely wonderful when you fulfill anyone, and you’ve had mates in this Scout movement […] you usually communicate to each individual other, question how things are. It’s also when you satisfy hikers […] you instantly realize each and every other, the extended-length hikers, not just somebody who goes for three times, and you can normally, normally, see them you meet up with and speak, and inquire how they are carrying out.” 

The same day he noticed the wolf, he also skilled what he phone calls the wonder of getting shelter at the appropriate moment. “For me, the most tricky mountains were being these japanese Carpathians, like Vrancea, Penteleu, a ton of forest, no signal if you meet up with dogs they are incredibly aggressive because they are not used to tourists at all, no a single is likely there, I haven’t fulfilled a one vacationer. And it was raining all the time, I was down mentally, I failed to assume I would make it, it was far too far and then it starts off raining once again, and then there was a rainbow. I seemed at the rainbow, and in the center of the bow, there was a property in the mountains. A shepherd’s property but it was vacant, it was freshly designed, two-3 years in the past. For me it was like a wonder, for typical people this is nothing, they wouldn’t remain there, it will not appear stunning, but when you are on a hike, in the rain for lots of, a lot of times, you truly feel cold all the time – it was a miracle.”

The cabin insider the rainbow

Arriving in Băile Herculane was a significantly-awaited moment and came with a feeling of achievement. “You wander, walk, stroll, and I was walking really a large amount, 35 km for every working day, it is pretty a lot on this trail I feel I was the speediest so significantly. The rationale was I commenced fairly late, I had some commitments at do the job. I was supposed to start on June 1st and I begun June 10th, and I really required to go quick. And then you stroll, and walk, and it’s raining, and I experienced it on my mind, it was this sensation of achievement.”

Another emotional second arrived with hearing Czech once again, spoken in the Czech villages, the place he also observed a selected distance in the direction of travelers. “I feel it is a excellent position if another person talks about eco-tourism advancement to go to the Czech villages and see how it works. It would be appealing to do some research, the psychological protection of the locals towards the tourists.”

By the Danube, at the stop of the journey

Wanting back on his hike, he recalls the days he spent climbing on the Pacific Crest Trail, which starts off at the border with Mexico and finishes on that with Canada. It has developed so well-known in time that now individuals want to contend for permits to go there, he points out. Mountaineering the trail was when a aspiration he was hunting to make appear correct, but he has now switched to the Carpathians. 

“I believe the Carpathians have the potential to turn into completely outstanding for extended-length hikers, especially with this freedom, risk of staying any where. In the US, the Pacific Crest Trail, you’ve bought specified camps, and you just stick to them, you require to have permits, you require to have bear cans for safety of food stuff against bears. That is a different level. The Carpathian bears are super, and they are typically terrified, compared to the US, exactly where they are genuinely used to people, they sniff the food and are ready to tear your tent and take in your food stuff. It will develop into additional and far more well-liked. And I consider it is also an chance for tourism in Romania.”

He also points to a community entrepreneurial spirit that he has observed producing. “If I go back again to the 1990s, I must say there was not a big difference between Romania and Ukraine. But when I was on this hike, 2019, when I crossed from Solotvyno to Sighetu Marmației, it was a absolutely unique globe, with a ton of shops, and folks accomplishing enterprise. You truly feel this entrepreneurship spirit. I was impressed by that, how you are in a position to row the state and how so quite a few folks began modest enterprises you can evidently see how factors are likely forward.”

Not long ago requested by a tourist with little time to invest in the nation what is the nicest component to go to in Romania, he pointed to Vatra Dornei and the surroundings simply because of the options there for unique mountains, which include Călimani or Rodnei. He also gave the possibility of likely to Băile Herculane or Petroșani mainly because of the different opportunities to hike from there. 

When he has observed many additional travellers coming to the Romanian Carpathians, they commonly take a look at just a several pieces, with Făgăraș becoming one of the favorites, he describes.

“At the minute, persons are coming, they are concentrating on just a couple of parts, but the natural beauty is hidden the actual beauty are people meadows, with the persons with the scythes mowing them, which is going away. It is a beautiful place. When I consider of wherever I could possibly retire, I may go to the mountains there.”

Michal Medek is the director of the Kaprálův mlýn SCENES center (Scout Centre of Excellence for Character and Natural environment). He also will work on the development of comfortable capabilities in the area of heritage interpretation in the Czech Republic. He is a member of the Educational Committee of Interpret Europe. He teaches a few a single-semester classes on environmental education and learning and heritage interpretation at Masaryk University in Brno.

(All shots courtesy of Michal Medek)

[email protected]